How to Cut Off Sprinkler Riser? Replace Damaged Part

Introduction

Replacing a damaged sprinkler riser is a common irrigation repair that many homeowners tackle themselves. Whether the riser has cracked due to freezing, broken under foot traffic, or become misaligned from ground shifts, knowing how to cut off sprinkler riser components properly can save you hundreds of dollars in professional service calls. This guide walks you through the entire process, from identifying the type of riser you have to safely removing and replacing it.

The key to a successful sprinkler riser replacement lies in preparation and understanding the system’s layout. Before reaching for your tools, it helps to know whether you are dealing with a pop-up spray head riser, a rotary sprinkler riser, or a stationary riser connected to a main line. Each type requires slightly different techniques, but the fundamental principles remain the same: shut off the water, relieve pressure, remove the old part carefully, and install the new one with proper sealing.

This article covers everything you need to know about cutting off and replacing a sprinkler riser, including safety considerations, tool selection, step-by-step instructions, troubleshooting tips, and answers to frequently asked questions. By the end, you will feel confident handling this repair on your own.

Table of Contents

• Understanding Sprinkler Risers
• Common Reasons for Replacement
• Tools and Materials Needed
• Safety Precautions
• Shutting Off the Water Supply
• Identifying Your Riser Type
• Removing the Damaged Riser
• Cutting Techniques by Riser Type
• Preparing the Pipe Fitting
• Installing the New Riser
• Testing the Sprinkler System
• Troubleshooting Common Issues
• Riser Types Comparison
• Tips and Best Practices
• Common Mistakes to Avoid
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Conclusion

Understanding Sprinkler Risers

A sprinkler riser is a short pipe or fitting that connects the main irrigation line to the sprinkler head. It serves as a vertical extension that brings water from underground pipes up to the level where the sprinkler head sits. Risers come in several configurations, including riser extensions, riser assemblies, and integral riser systems built into the sprinkler head itself.

The primary function of a riser is to provide a stable, adjustable connection between the fixed underground plumbing and the movable sprinkler head. Some risers allow height adjustment so that the sprinkler head can be raised or lowered depending on the surrounding landscape conditions. Others are designed as permanent connections that require excavation to modify.

Risers are typically made from durable materials such as PVC, brass, or polyethylene. PVC risers are lightweight and easy to cut but may become brittle over time. Brass risers are more robust and resistant to freezing but are heavier and harder to machine. Polyethylene risers offer flexibility and freeze resistance but may not support heavy-duty applications.

Understanding your specific riser type is crucial before attempting any cutting or replacement work. Using the wrong technique for your riser material can damage surrounding pipes or create leaks that worsen the original problem.

Common Reasons for Replacement

There are several scenarios that necessitate cutting off and replacing a sprinkler riser. The most frequent cause is physical damage from lawn equipment, foot traffic, or accidental impact. When a lawnmower strikes a sprinkler head, the force often travels down the riser and causes cracks or complete breakage at the connection point.

Freeze damage is another leading cause of riser failure. In regions with cold winters, trapped water inside the riser can expand when it freezes, splitting PVC or brass components. Even systems with automatic drain valves can suffer damage if the drainage mechanism fails or if the system is not properly winterized.

Misalignment issues also prompt riser replacement. As soil settles or shifts over time, the sprinkler head may tilt or sink below grade. While some risers accommodate minor adjustments, severe misalignment often requires removing and reinstalling the riser at the correct angle and height.

Age-related deterioration gradually weakens riser materials. UV exposure degrades plastic components, while constant water pressure cycling causes metal fatigue in brass fittings. When a riser reaches the end of its useful life, proactive replacement prevents unexpected failures during peak irrigation seasons.

Upgrading to a different sprinkler head model may also require riser modification. Newer heads sometimes feature different thread sizes or connection types, making the existing riser incompatible with the replacement component.

Tools and Materials Needed

Successfully cutting off a sprinkler riser requires the right combination of tools and replacement parts. The specific items needed vary depending on your riser type and the extent of damage, but most repairs involve a core set of essentials.

For basic riser removal and replacement, gather the following tools:

• Adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers
• Pipe cutter or hacksaw designed for plastic pipes
• Utility knife with fresh blades
• Teflon tape or pipe thread sealant
• Threaded pipe connector or coupling
• New riser assembly matching your system specifications
• Safety glasses and work gloves
• Towels or rags for cleanup

If your riser connects to a PVC main line, you will also need:

• PVC primer and cement
• PVC coupling or replacement fitting
• Deburring tool or sandpaper

For brass or copper riser systems, consider adding:

• Tube cutter appropriate for metal piping
• Emery cloth or wire brush for cleaning threads
• Lead-free solder and flux if soldering is required

Having all necessary materials on hand before starting prevents interruptions and ensures you do not leave the irrigation system exposed for extended periods. Double-check thread sizes and pipe diameters against your existing components to avoid return trips to the hardware store.

Safety Precautions

Working with an irrigation system involves potential hazards that demand attention to safety protocols. Even though the water pressure in residential systems is relatively low compared to commercial installations, proper precautions protect both the worker and the surrounding property.

Always begin by shutting off the main water supply to the irrigation system. This step eliminates the risk of sudden water release under pressure, which can cause injury or property damage. Locate the main shut-off valve, which is typically near the water meter or where the irrigation line branches from the household supply.

After shutting off the water, open the nearest sprinkler head to relieve residual pressure in the line. Trapped pressure can force water out unexpectedly when you disconnect fittings, creating a messy situation and potential slipping hazard. Allow all water to drain completely before proceeding with cutting or disassembly.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris, especially when using power tools or cutting through pressurized pipes. Sharp plastic or metal fragments can cause serious eye injuries. Work gloves provide grip protection and shield your hands from cuts when handling sharp-edged broken components.

Be mindful of underground utilities when excavating around the riser location. Call your local utility marking service before digging to have gas, electric, water, and communication lines identified and marked. Striking an underground utility can result in service disruption, injury, or expensive repairs.

If working in wet conditions or during electrical storms, postpone the repair until weather improves. Wet surfaces increase slip risk, and electrical conductivity in water poses additional dangers when using power tools near irrigation components.

Shutting Off the Water Supply

Properly shutting off the water supply is the foundation of any safe sprinkler riser replacement. Failure to isolate the section being worked on can lead to unexpected water discharge, complicating the repair and potentially damaging nearby components.

Start by locating the main irrigation shut-off valve. In many residential systems, this valve is situated near the water meter or where the irrigation line tees off from the main household water supply. The valve may be a ball valve, gate valve, or globe valve, depending on the installation.

Turn the valve clockwise to close it fully. For ball valves, the handle should be perpendicular to the pipe when closed. Gate and globe valves require multiple turns until resistance is felt, indicating the valve is fully seated. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the valve seat or stem packing.

Once the main supply is shut off, identify and close any zone-specific valves that control water flow to the affected area. These valves are often located in valve boxes scattered throughout the yard and are controlled by the irrigation timer or manual shut-offs.

With all relevant valves closed, activate the sprinkler system briefly using the controller to confirm that water flow has stopped. If water continues to seep from the riser area, double-check that all valves are fully closed and consider whether additional isolation is needed.

Open the nearest sprinkler head manually to bleed off any remaining pressure in the line. This step ensures that no water remains trapped between the shut-off valve and the work site, preventing surprise releases during disassembly.

Identifying Your Riser Type

Before cutting or removing a sprinkler riser, you must accurately identify which type you are dealing with. The three most common riser configurations found in residential irrigation systems are pop-up spray risers, rotary sprinkler risers, and stationary riser assemblies.

Pop-up spray risers are the most recognizable. These consist of a vertical pipe with a threaded top connection that accepts a standard spray head. When the system activates, water pressure lifts the sprinkler head above ground level. To identify this type, look for a visible sprinkler head that retracts into the ground when the system is off.

Rotary sprinkler risers operate similarly but use gear-driven or turbine-driven heads that produce a rotating stream of water. The riser body may be identical to a spray riser, but the head mechanism differs. Check for a larger diameter head with a distinctive rotation pattern or multiple outlet ports.

Stationary risers do not feature pop-up mechanisms. Instead, they support a permanently installed sprinkler head that remains above ground at all times. These are common in shrub areas, flower beds, or along foundation walls where the sprinkler head must maintain a fixed position.

Material identification is equally important. PVC risers are typically white or gray and feel relatively lightweight. Brass risers are heavier, have a golden metallic appearance, and may show signs of tarnishing or corrosion. Polyethylene risers are usually black or dark-colored and feel flexible compared to rigid PVC or brass alternatives.

Take note of connection types as well. Threaded connections require different removal techniques than solvent-welded joints. Compression fittings and push-fit connectors represent additional variations that influence your approach to cutting and replacement.

Removing the Damaged Riser

With the water supply secured and the riser type identified, you can proceed with removing the damaged component. The removal process varies depending on the extent of damage and the connection method used.

For risers with visible damage above ground, start by excavating the soil around the base of the sprinkler head. Use a hand trowel or small shovel to carefully expose several inches of the riser pipe below the connection point. Avoid using excessive force that could damage adjacent underground pipes.

If the riser is threaded into a fitting below ground, attempt to unscrew it by hand first. Many riser connections can be loosened manually, especially if they have not seized due to mineral buildup or corrosion. Use an adjustable wrench only if hand loosening proves insufficient, taking care not to overtighten and strip the threads.

For solvent-welded PVC connections, cutting becomes necessary. Position a PVC pipe cutter or hacksaw just above the fitting to sever the riser cleanly. Leave a small stub of the old riser protruding from the fitting to facilitate removal of any internal fragments.

After cutting, use a flat-head screwdriver or specialized fitting removal tool to extract the remaining riser stub from the threaded or glued fitting. For threaded connections, gently pry upward while rotating to break loose any seized threads. Apply penetrating oil if necessary and allow it to dwell before attempting removal again.

In cases where the riser has broken off flush with the fitting, you may need to split the remaining portion longitudinally using a chisel or rotary tool. This technique allows you to peel away fragments without damaging the parent fitting.

Once the old riser is fully removed, inspect the receiving fitting for damage. Cracked or corroded fittings require replacement before installing the new riser. Clean all debris and old sealant material from the fitting threads or socket to ensure a proper seal with the new component.

Cutting Techniques by Riser Type

The method used to cut off a sprinkler riser depends heavily on the material and configuration of the component. Each riser type responds best to specific cutting approaches that minimize damage to surrounding infrastructure.

PVC risers are best cut using a dedicated PVC pipe cutter, which produces clean, square cuts without deforming the pipe. If a PVC cutter is unavailable, a fine-toothed hacksaw works adequately. Support the pipe on both sides of the cut to prevent binding, and cut slowly to avoid melting the plastic from friction.

For brass or copper risers, a tube cutter designed for metal piping provides the cleanest result. These tools create smooth, burr-free cuts essential for proper thread engagement or soldering. When using a hacksaw on metal, choose a fine-tooth blade and wrap the cut area with tape to prevent the blade from wandering.

Polyethylene risers present unique challenges due to their flexibility. A sharp utility knife works well for cutting through poly tubing, but maintain steady pressure and rotate the pipe as you cut to achieve a straight, even severance. Avoid crushing the pipe by supporting it during the cutting process.

When cutting near underground fittings, always leave a short stub of the original riser in place. This stub provides leverage for removing broken fragments and serves as a guide for aligning the new riser. Cutting too close to the fitting increases the risk of debris falling into the pipe or damaging the fitting itself.

After cutting, remove any burrs or sharp edges using sandpaper, a deburring tool, or fine-grit emery cloth. Smooth surfaces prevent damage to new components and ensure proper sealing during reassembly.

Preparing the Pipe Fitting

Thorough preparation of the receiving fitting is critical to achieving a leak-free connection with your new riser. Even the highest-quality replacement components will fail if installed on a dirty, damaged, or improperly prepared fitting.

Begin by thoroughly cleaning the fitting interior or threads using a wire brush, sandpaper, or emery cloth. Remove any residual sealant, corrosion, or mineral deposits that could interfere with the new connection. For threaded fittings, pay special attention to the first few threads where sealant accumulates most heavily.

Inspect the fitting for cracks, splits, or deformities. PVC fittings may develop hairline fractures that are difficult to detect visually. Run your fingers along the surface to feel for irregularities, or use a flashlight to examine the fitting from multiple angles. Any damaged fitting should be replaced before proceeding.

For solvent-welded connections, remove the old riser stub completely and clean the fitting socket with a rag. If the fitting socket shows signs of solvent cement residue, lightly sand the surface to create a clean bonding area. Do not use primer on previously glued joints, as this can weaken the existing bond.

Threaded fittings require careful attention to thread condition. Damaged or crossed threads prevent proper sealing and can cause the new riser to leak immediately upon installation. Use a thread chaser or die to restore damaged threads if replacement is not feasible.

Apply new sealing material after preparing the fitting. Teflon tape works well for threaded connections, wrapping clockwise around the male threads starting from the end. For solvent-welded joints, apply a thin, even coat of PVC primer followed by PVC cement according to manufacturer specifications.

Allow solvent-welded connections to cure for the recommended time before pressurizing the system. Most PVC cements require at least 15 minutes for initial set and up to 24 hours for full cure strength, depending on temperature and humidity conditions.

Installing the New Riser

With the old riser removed and the fitting prepared, you can install the replacement component. Proper installation technique ensures long-term reliability and prevents the need for repeat repairs.

For threaded connections, apply fresh Teflon tape or pipe thread sealant to the male threads. Wrap Teflon tape clockwise around the threads, starting at the end and overlapping each pass by half the tape width. Typically, three to five wraps provide adequate sealing without creating excess bulk that could interfere with thread engagement.

Hand-tighten the new riser into the fitting first, ensuring the threads engage smoothly without cross-threading. Cross-threading occurs when the threads are misaligned and forced together, damaging both the riser and fitting threads. If resistance is encountered during hand-tightening, back the riser out and restart the threading process.

Once hand-tight, use an appropriate wrench to secure the riser further. For brass or copper risers, a standard adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers provide sufficient grip. For PVC risers, use a soft-jawed clamp or wrap the jaws with cloth to prevent crushing the plastic.

Tighten the riser until snug, then give it an additional quarter to half turn. Overtightening can strip threads or crack plastic components, while undertightening results in leaks. When in doubt, err on the side of slightly loose and check for leaks during system testing.

For solvent-welded connections, apply PVC primer to both the fitting socket and the riser end, followed by an even coat of PVC cement. Insert the riser fully into the socket while rotating slightly to distribute the cement evenly. Hold the connection in place for at least 30 seconds to allow initial set, then wipe away any excess cement with a clean rag.

After installation, reattach any sprinkler heads, risers, or accessories that were removed during the repair process. Ensure all connections are properly seated and tightened to manufacturer specifications.

Testing the Sprinkler System

Once the new riser is installed, testing the system confirms that the repair was successful and that no leaks or operational issues remain. This verification step is essential before returning the area to normal use.

Before restoring water flow, visually inspect all connections for proper assembly. Check that the riser is aligned correctly, all fittings are secure, and no tools or debris remain in the work area. Replace any soil that was excavated during the repair, but leave the area easily accessible for immediate observation during testing.

Gradually reopen the main water supply valve, watching for signs of leakage at the repaired connection. Slow opening prevents water hammer effects that could stress the new joint. If using a gate or globe valve, turn it counterclockwise slowly until water begins to flow, then continue opening fully.

Activate the irrigation zone containing the repaired riser using the system controller. Observe the area carefully during the first few minutes of operation for any signs of seepage, dripping, or pooling water. Pay particular attention to the connection points where the new riser meets the fitting.

If a leak is detected, shut off the water immediately and investigate the cause. Common issues include insufficient sealing material, cross-threaded connections, or debris preventing proper seating. Address the problem and retest before continuing.

After confirming no leaks exist, allow the system to operate through a complete watering cycle. This extended test period reveals intermittent issues that might not appear during a brief inspection. Monitor the repaired area periodically throughout the cycle.

Once testing is complete and no issues are found, backfill the remaining excavated soil and restore the area to its original condition. Mark the repaired zone in your irrigation system documentation for future reference.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with careful preparation and execution, sprinkler riser replacements can encounter unexpected problems. Understanding how to diagnose and resolve these issues quickly prevents minor complications from becoming major setbacks.

One of the most common problems is continued leakage after installation. If water seeps from the connection, first verify that the riser is properly tightened. Over-tightening can deform plastic components, while undertightening leaves gaps in the seal. Check that adequate sealing material was applied and that threads are clean and undamaged.

Difficulty threading the new riser onto the fitting usually indicates cross-threading or damaged threads. Remove the riser completely and inspect both male and female threads for burrs, corrosion, or deformation. Use a thread chaser or die to restore damaged threads, or replace the fitting if the damage is severe.

If the new riser does not fit into the existing fitting, verify that you selected the correct size and thread type. Sprinkler systems use various standards including NPT (National Pipe Thread), MPT (Male Pipe Thread), and proprietary connections. Taking the old riser to a hardware store for comparison ensures compatibility.

Low water pressure at the repaired sprinkler head may indicate a restriction in the new riser or fitting. Check for debris that may have fallen into the pipe during installation, or verify that the riser internal diameter matches the original component. A smaller internal diameter restricts flow and reduces system performance.

Erratic sprinkler head movement or failure to pop up properly often relates to riser height or alignment. Ensure the riser extends to the correct height above the surrounding grade and that the sprinkler head is oriented properly. An improperly positioned riser can cause the head to bind or fail to activate.

Freezing damage recurring in the same location suggests inadequate winterization procedures. Consider installing a frost-proof riser design or adding insulation around above-ground components. In colder climates, automatic drain valves and proper blow-out procedures prevent future freeze-related failures.

Riser Types Comparison

This comparison table highlights the key characteristics of common sprinkler riser types. Pop-up spray risers offer the easiest replacement process and lowest cost but are susceptible to freezing damage. Rotary sprinkler risers share similar traits but accommodate higher-pressure rotating heads. Stationary shrub risers provide superior durability and freeze resistance at a higher price point. Polyethylene flex risers offer excellent freeze resistance and easy installation but have a shorter lifespan than rigid alternatives.

Tips and Best Practices

Implementing these tips and best practices during your sprinkler riser replacement will improve the quality and longevity of your repair work.

Take photos before disassembly. Document the original configuration with your smartphone or camera. These images prove invaluable when reassembling components or if you need to consult with a professional about the repair.

Keep a repair kit handy. Maintain a stock of common riser sizes, thread adapters, Teflon tape, and pipe clamps. Having these items readily available eliminates delays when unexpected damage is discovered during excavation.

Use the right tools for the job. Investing in quality pipe cutters, adjustable wrenches, and thread sealants pays dividends in clean cuts and reliable connections. Cheap tools often cause more damage than they prevent.

Work methodically. Complete one step fully before moving to the next. Rushing through the process leads to mistakes that require additional time and materials to correct.

Consider upgrading during replacement. If your existing riser is outdated or frequently problematic, use the opportunity to install a higher-quality component. Modern risers offer improved materials and designs that reduce future maintenance.

Label zone information. Update your irrigation system diagram with the date and details of the repair. This documentation helps track maintenance schedules and provides useful information for future repairs or system upgrades.

Plan for seasonal maintenance. Schedule riser inspections as part of your annual spring startup and fall winterization routines. Catching small problems early prevents major failures and expensive emergency repairs.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced DIY enthusiasts can make mistakes when replacing sprinkler risers. Recognizing these common errors and taking steps to avoid them ensures a successful repair outcome.

Failing to shut off the water completely. Some homeowners rely solely on zone valves rather than the main supply. Always shut off the main irrigation valve and verify that water flow has stopped before beginning work. Residual pressure can cause unexpected water release and complicate the repair process.

Rushing the excavation process. Using excessive force or inappropriate tools when digging around underground pipes can cause collateral damage. Take time to carefully expose the riser and surrounding fittings using hand tools whenever possible.

Using incorrect replacement parts. Assuming that all risers are interchangeable leads to compatibility issues. Thread sizes, connection types, and pressure ratings vary significantly between manufacturers and models. Always verify specifications before purchasing replacement components.

Neglecting to prepare fittings properly. Installing a new riser on a dirty, corroded, or damaged fitting almost guarantees future problems. Take time to clean and inspect all mating surfaces before assembly.

Overtightening connections. Especially with PVC components, overtightening can strip threads or crack fittings. Follow manufacturer torque recommendations and use the appropriate tools for each connection type.

Skipping the testing phase. Failing to test the system after installation means problems may go unnoticed until significant damage occurs. Always pressurize and inspect the repaired area before considering the job complete.

Ignoring local codes and permits. Some municipalities require permits for irrigation system modifications. Check with your local building department to determine if permits are needed and what inspection requirements apply.

Frequently Asked Questions

How to Cut Off Sprinkler Riser Without Damaging Surrounding Pipes?

The key is using the right cutting tool and technique for your riser material. For PVC risers, use a PVC pipe cutter or fine-toothed hacksaw, supporting the pipe on both sides of the cut to prevent crushing. For metal risers, a tube cutter designed for the specific material provides the cleanest cut. Always cut above the fitting, leaving a short stub for removal, and never force the tool which can cause the blade to slip and damage adjacent pipes.

Can You Replace a Riser Without Shutting Off the Main Water?

While technically possible with specialized tools, replacing a sprinkler riser without shutting off the main water supply is extremely difficult and risky. The water pressure in residential systems is sufficient to cause significant flooding and make precise work nearly impossible. Always shut off the main irrigation valve and relieve pressure by opening the nearest sprinkler head before beginning any riser replacement work.

What Size Riser Do I Need for My Sprinkler System?

Sprinkler riser sizing depends on your existing system configuration. Common riser diameters include 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch, and 1 inch, with corresponding thread sizes. The safest approach is to remove your old riser and take it to a hardware store for exact matching. Alternatively, measure the outer diameter of the threaded end and the inner diameter of the receiving fitting to determine the correct replacement size.

How Often Should Sprinkler Risers Be Replaced?

Replacement frequency depends on material, climate, and usage patterns. PVC risers typically last 10-15 years but may fail sooner in areas with frequent freeze-thaw cycles. Brass and copper risers can last 15-25 years with proper maintenance. Polyethylene risers offer excellent freeze resistance but may need replacement every 8-12 years due to UV degradation. Regular inspection during seasonal maintenance helps identify wear before catastrophic failure occurs.

Is Teflon Tape or Pipe Sealant Better for Riser Connections?

Both products work effectively when applied correctly. Teflon tape is easier to apply and cleaner to use, making it ideal for DIY repairs. Pipe dope or liquid sealant fills larger gaps and irregularities better, making it suitable for older or worn threads. For most residential sprinkler riser applications, high-quality Teflon tape applied with three to five wraps provides reliable sealing. Always follow manufacturer recommendations for the specific connection type.

What Causes a Sprinkler Riser to Freeze and Crack?

Freeze damage occurs when water trapped in the riser expands during freezing temperatures. This commonly happens when the system is not properly winterized, when low spots in the pipe trap water, or when drain valves malfunction. Risers positioned above the frost line are particularly vulnerable. Installing frost-proof riser designs, ensuring proper system drainage, and using insulated risers in cold climates significantly reduces freeze-related failures.

Can I Use Any Riser with My Sprinkler Head?

No, riser and sprinkler head compatibility depends on thread type, size, and connection standards. Most residential systems use standard NPT (National Pipe Thread) connections, but some manufacturers employ proprietary threading. Always verify that your new riser matches the thread specifications of both the sprinkler head and the underground fitting. Mixing incompatible components leads to leaks, cross-threading, or complete connection failure.

Conclusion

Learning how to cut off sprinkler riser components and replace damaged parts empowers homeowners to maintain their irrigation systems effectively while saving money on professional services. The process requires careful attention to safety, proper tool selection, and methodical execution, but the skills developed are valuable for any property owner with an irrigation system.

Remember that successful riser replacement begins long before you pick up a cutting tool. Shutting off the water supply, identifying your specific riser type, and gathering all necessary materials prevents delays and complications during the actual repair. Taking time to properly prepare fittings and apply appropriate sealing methods ensures a long-lasting, leak-free connection.

Regular inspection and maintenance of your sprinkler system, including periodic riser checks, prevents many emergency repairs. Addressing small issues promptly, such as minor leaks or alignment problems, extends the overall lifespan of your irrigation infrastructure and maintains optimal watering performance throughout the growing season.

With the knowledge and techniques outlined in this guide, you can confidently tackle sprinkler riser replacements of varying complexity. Whether dealing with a simple threaded connection or a more involved solvent-welded joint, the principles of careful preparation, precise execution, and thorough testing remain constant. Your investment in learning these skills pays dividends through reduced maintenance costs and improved system reliability for years to come.